Why Anchoring Your Floating Dock to Shore Matters

Knowing how to anchor a floating dock to shore is key to keeping your dock safe and steady all season. Here's a quick look at the essential steps you need to follow:

1. Assess Your Environment: Consider water depth, currents, wind, and shoreline conditions.
2. Choose the Right Anchor: Select cable anchors, stiff-arm brackets, pole & sleeve setups, or pile anchors based on your conditions.
3. Gather Your Materials: Typically, concrete blocks and galvanized steel chains arranged in a criss-cross pattern.
4. Install Securely: Position anchors carefully, attach chains, and leave slack for water-level changes.
5. Inspect Regularly: Perform routine maintenance checks and adjustments for stability.

We've all been there—who hasn't had to board a boat on an otherwise lazy summer afternoon to rescue an errant floating dock? Avoid that hassle by installing the right anchoring system from the start. A sturdy dock doesn't just keep your boat safe—it protects your wallet too, preventing costly repairs from storm damage or shifting currents.

This infographic sums up exactly why proper floating dock anchoring is a must:

How to anchor a floating dock to shore terms to know:

• anchoring a floating dock
• floating dock anchoring
• floating dock anchoring systems

Understanding Your Dock's Environment

Before diving into how to anchor a floating dock to shore, it's important to really get to know your dock's environment. Every shoreline has its own personality—just ask our Long Island clients! From the peaceful, sheltered coves of Cold Spring Harbor to the windy, wave-exposed shores near South Hampton, each location has unique factors that affect your anchoring choices.

Here's what you need to keep in mind:

Water Depth and Fluctuations

One of the first things we always remind folks is to thoroughly understand the water depth around their dock. Knowing the depth at the far end of your dock isn't just handy—it's vital. It ensures your chains or cables comfortably reach the bottom, allowing your anchors to do their job properly.

But don't just measure once! Water levels can vary dramatically throughout the year, especially with tide shifts common around Nassau and Suffolk Counties. We've seen tidal swings of up to 8 feet, which means your anchoring system needs enough flexibility to accommodate these seasonal changes.

"Knowing the water depth, especially at the far end of the dock, is crucial to ensure the chain reaches the bottom and that there is enough weight to keep the dock secure," says one of our senior engineers at Pearce Marine Construction. (And trust us, after generations in the business, we've learned to listen!)

Currents, Wind, and Wave Exposure

Mother Nature can be unpredictable, and your anchoring system needs to handle anything she throws your way. If your dock sits in sheltered waters—like a cozy inlet in Huntington—you'll face fewer challenges from waves and wind. But if you're on an exposed coastline near South Hampton, you'll likely deal with stronger currents, higher wind exposure, and bigger waves during storms. We've measured currents up to 2.5 knots in some locations—strong enough to push around an improperly anchored dock.

Think of it like dressing for the weather. If there's a storm brewing, you'll want something sturdier to keep your dock safe and sound.

Shoreline Type

The type of shoreline you have will heavily influence your choice of anchoring method. Rocky shores make it tough (or impossible) to install traditional ground anchors or piles. In these scenarios, we typically recommend concrete pad anchors or deadweight systems. One creative client in Lloyd Harbor faced exactly this issue. "Our shoreline was so rocky and steep that traditional anchors wouldn't work," she explained. "The team at Pearce Marine Construction poured a concrete pad with embedded mounting studs that served as both an anchor point and a small shoreline patio. It's been rock-solid for years."

On muddy shorelines, mushroom anchors or helical anchors work great since the soil provides excellent holding power. For sandy shores, deadweight anchors or pile systems are the best bets, while silty shores usually require concrete pier pads or oversized anchors due to their soft, unstable soil.

Take a look at this comparison table to quickly see what works best for your shoreline type:

Environmental Regulations and Permits

We can't stress enough how important local regulations are. Here on Long Island, and throughout New York, the Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) has clear guidelines about any structures placed in waterways. Even small floating docks may require permits, especially if they're larger than 15 square meters.

Be mindful of how and where you handle your concrete work too. All concrete work must be done on land. This prevents uncured concrete from leaking into the water—important for protecting our beautiful local waters.

A friendly tip from our experienced permit-filers: submit your applications in fall or winter. Fewer people apply during these months, meaning you'll often get your approval faster.

Understanding all these environmental factors might seem like extra work at first. But trust us—taking the time to get familiar with your dock's environment before you start anchoring saves headaches later. Plus, it ensures your dock remains safe, secure, and ready for endless summer memories.

Essential Anchoring Methods for Floating Docks

When it comes to understanding how to anchor a floating dock to shore, choosing the right anchoring system makes all the difference. At Pearce Marine Construction, we've helped countless homeowners across Long Island find the perfect solution for their dock's specific needs. Let's take a closer look at the most popular dock anchoring methods and see which fits your waterfront best.

Cable Anchoring: How to Anchor a Floating Dock to Shore

Cable anchoring is often our go-to recommendation because it's simple, budget-friendly, and incredibly adaptable. It works especially well in places with deep water or frequent changes in water levels, like the tidal waters around Long Island.

The cable anchoring system uses sturdy cables or galvanized steel chains connected from your floating dock to heavy concrete blocks resting on the lakebed or seabed. This setup provides a flexible yet secure hold, allowing the dock to adjust as the water rises and falls.

We once helped a family in Babylon whose dock needed frequent adjustments due to dramatic seasonal water level changes. We installed a cable system equipped with winches, allowing them to easily adjust their dock themselves. Even five years later, their dock remains stable and worry-free.

To get the best results from cable anchoring, be sure to use at least 600 lbs of anchor weight at each corner, spaced out every 24 to 30 feet. Chains arranged in a criss-cross pattern help evenly distribute loads and keep things stable. For more details, check out our full guide on Anchoring a Floating Dock.

Stiff-Arm Anchoring

If your dock needs a stable setup that doesn't shift side-to-side, stiff-arm anchoring could be your best choice. This rigid system connects your dock directly to fixed points along the shoreline or underwater, allowing vertical movement with minimal lateral drift.

Stiff-arm anchoring is ideal if your floating dock is within about 60 feet from shore, especially in areas with minimal water-level changes. We've installed these galvanized steel arms for clients like our friends in West Islip, who needed their dock perfectly aligned with their boathouse. Even during storms, their dock remained impressively steady.

Stiff-arm anchoring setups are robust, reliable, and very durable, keeping your dock exactly where you want it.

Pole and Sleeve Anchoring: Anchoring a Floating Dock to Shore

If your location faces strong winds and waves, pole and sleeve anchoring may be the best way to anchor your floating dock to shore. This clever system uses galvanized steel poles that slide snugly into vertical sleeves attached directly to your dock. These poles naturally "self-bury" into the lake or seabed, simplifying installation—no pile driving equipment required!

As one expert put it, "Pole and sleeve anchoring is recommended in environments with excessive waves and wind exposure." And we couldn't agree more.

We installed one of these systems for a family in Merrick who regularly battled high winds and choppy waters. The galvanized poles (16-18 feet long) have held firm for over three years without needing any adjustments. If your dock faces harsh conditions, this anchoring method provides unbeatable stability.

Pile Anchoring

Pile anchoring is the heavyweight champion of anchoring methods, perfect for heavy docks, commercial marinas, or any location needing maximum stability. This anchoring solution uses built-in pile slides paired with special UHMW-PE rollers (ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene). These rollers offer smooth, friction-free vertical movement while the piles keep your dock firmly in place horizontally.

Commercial docks around busy areas such as Huntington Harbor often use pile anchoring because of its strength, reliability, and longevity. Even with heavy loads and constant use, piles with UHMW-PE rollers continue to function smoothly for years, with minimal maintenance.

Each of these methods can effectively anchor your floating dock, but the best choice depends on your unique waterfront conditions. At Pearce Marine Construction, we offer practical guidance based on generations of expertise. Still not sure which method fits your dock? Don't hesitate to reach out—we're always here to help you figure out exactly how to anchor a floating dock to shore.

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Anchor a Floating Dock to Shore

Now that you understand the different anchoring methods, let's walk through the process of how to anchor a floating dock to shore step by step. This guide applies to most floating dock installations around Long Island waters.

Step 1: Assess Your Dock's Needs

Before you jump into anchoring your dock, take some time to evaluate what you're working with. Think of this as the "getting to know you" phase of your relationship with your dock.

Dock Size and Weight matters more than you might think. Those beautiful 30-foot docks you've been eyeing? They need substantially more anchoring than a modest 10-footer. Most experts (including our team at Pearce) recommend at least 600 lbs of anchoring weight at the furthest corners for standard floating docks.

Your Boat Load considerations should go beyond just what you have now. That 16-foot runabout might someday become a 23-foot cruiser weighing up to 2 tons. Better to anchor for your future dreams than have to redo everything in a couple of years!

When it comes to Environmental Factors, Long Island presents unique challenges. Our North Shore clients often contend with rocky, steep shorelines where traditional anchoring methods just won't cut it. Instead, we might recommend concrete pad anchors that double as small sitting areas—practical and pretty!

Water Level Fluctuations can be dramatic around our tidal areas. As one of our Oyster Bay clients finded, a dock that's perfectly positioned at high tide might be sitting awkwardly during low tide without proper planning.

"When we evaluate a site for a new dock installation, we're looking at the whole picture," explains our project manager. "A dock that seems perfectly anchored during those gorgeous July afternoons could be in real trouble during a November nor'easter if we don't plan for worst-case scenarios."

You can learn more about various dock options at our Boat Docks and Floating Docks page.

Step 2: Choose the Right Anchoring Method

Now comes the fun part—matching your dock's needs to the perfect anchoring method. Think of it as finding the right shoes for different terrain.

Cable Anchoring works beautifully for deep water and significant water level changes. We often recommend this for our clients in Bayshore and West Islip, where water depths can be considerable and tidal changes substantial.

Stiff-Arm Anchoring shines when your dock is close to shore and you need minimal lateral movement. This is often our go-to for protected harbors like Cold Spring Harbor, where the balance of stability and flexibility is just right.

Pole & Sleeve Anchoring is your best friend in high wind and wave environments. The vertical poles provide excellent resistance against lateral forces while still allowing the dock to rise and fall with changing water levels.

Pile Anchoring is the heavyweight champion, ideal for commercial applications or when you're planning to dock larger vessels. It's an investment, but the stability is best.

"We installed a cable system for a family in Huntington last year," shares our installation team leader. "They had tried the DIY route with inadequate anchoring and spent more time chasing their dock than enjoying it. Now they actually use the phrase 'rock solid' to describe their setup."

For more detailed information about these methods, check out our guide on Anchoring a Floating Dock.

Step 3: Gather Necessary Materials and Tools

With your method selected, it's time to gather your materials. This is where preparation meets practicality.

For Cable/Chain Anchoring, you'll need concrete anchors (typically 150-250 lbs each), galvanized chain (1/4 inch for smaller bodies of water, 3/8 inch for larger areas), eye bolts or chain retainers, chain quick links, and protective wood planks to place under anchors.

If you're going with Stiff-Arm Anchoring, gather your galvanized steel arms, mounting brackets, hardware for shore attachment, and concrete for shore mounting points.

For Pole & Sleeve Anchoring, you'll need galvanized steel poles (typically 16-18 feet long), vertical sleeves for attachment to dock, and hardware for securing sleeves to dock.

And if Pile Anchoring is your choice, prepare piles (wood, concrete, or steel), pile slides with UHMW-PE rollers, and hardware for attaching slides to dock.

"Quality materials make all the difference in marine environments," notes our materials specialist at Pearce Marine Construction. "We always recommend marine-grade galvanized chains and hardware. The saltwater around Long Island isn't forgiving to subpar materials—I've seen standard hardware corrode to nothing in less than a season!"

One of our Montauk clients learned this lesson the hard way after using regular hardware store chains for their DIY anchoring. Six months later, they were fishing their dock out of their neighbor's yard after a modest storm. Marine-grade materials aren't just a suggestion—they're a necessity.

Step 4: Install Your Anchoring System: How to Anchor Your Floating Dock to Shore

Installation day has arrived! While each method has its specifics, let's walk through the most common approach—cable/chain anchoring.

First, prepare your anchors by placing concrete blocks on long planks of wood on the dock. This simple step protects your decking from damage—something many DIYers forget until they're patching holes in their beautiful new dock.

When positioning your anchors, corners need the most weight—at least 600 lbs at the furthest corners from shore and 450 lbs at the corners closer to shore. For longer docks, place anchors every 24 to 30 feet for optimal stability.

Attaching the chains requires attention to detail. Run the chain through each anchor's rebar or attachment point, securing connections with proper marine-grade hardware. This is not the place to cut corners!

The criss-cross pattern is crucial for balance. Arrange your chains in an "X" configuration to distribute tension evenly and minimize lateral movement. Think of it as creating a web of support for your dock.

Always leave extra chain—about 1-2 feet of additional length accommodates water level changes. This prevents unnecessary stress during tide changes or seasonal fluctuations. A dock that can't rise with the water will eventually be underwater or damaged.

Finally, secure everything to the dock using eye bolts or chain retainers, ensuring all hardware is properly tightened.

"We installed a sophisticated cable anchoring system for a client in Wantagh with a 6-foot tidal range," recalls our installation team leader. "The concrete blocks weighed over 600 pounds each, and we arranged the chains in a precise pattern with calculated slack. Three years later, they haven't had to make a single adjustment, even after some pretty serious storms."

Step 5: Test and Adjust Your Shore Anchoring

Your anchoring system is installed—but you're not quite done yet. Testing and adjusting are the final critical steps.

Check stability by applying pressure to different parts of the dock. A well-anchored dock should move slightly up and down with water movement but have minimal lateral movement. If you can easily push the dock sideways, you need more tension on your chains.

Adjust tension as needed. If the dock moves too much laterally, you may need to tighten chains. If chains are too tight, they won't allow for proper water level adjustments. Finding that sweet spot takes some finesse.

Monitor performance over time, especially after weather events. Even the best installation may need occasional adjustments as conditions change.

"A well-anchored dock is essential for overall safety and durability. Regular checks and adjustments, especially after significant weather events, can extend the life of your dock considerably."

One of our Brightwaters clients reported that after we installed their anchoring system, they weathered three nor'easters without any damage or excessive movement to their dock. "The peace of mind alone was worth the investment in proper anchoring," they told us. "I used to lose sleep every time the wind picked up. Now I don't even worry about it."

Seasonal changes may require adjustments too. What works perfectly in summer might need tweaking come winter, especially if you leave your dock in year-round.

How to anchor a floating dock to shore isn't just a one-time project—it's an ongoing relationship with your waterfront. Give it the attention it deserves, and your dock will provide years of reliable service and enjoyment.

Safety Tips and Best Practices for Dock Anchoring

When it comes to how to anchor a floating dock to shore, safety should always be your top priority. Here are some essential tips and best practices we've developed through years of experience installing docks throughout Nassau and Suffolk Counties:

Regular Inspections

You wouldn't go years without checking your car's tires, so why would you ignore your dock anchoring system? At Pearce Marine Construction, we've seen too many preventable dock failures that could have been caught with regular inspections.

Seasonal checks are absolutely essential – we recommend at least twice a year, ideally in spring and fall. Spring inspections let you assess any winter damage, while fall checks help prepare your dock for the harsher winter conditions. After all, Long Island weather can be unpredictable!

Always perform a thorough post-storm inspection after significant weather events. I'll never forget a client in Oyster Bay who ignored checking their dock after a nor'easter, only to find their boat had damaged the weakened structure a week later. That quick fifteen-minute check could have saved them thousands in repairs.

When inspecting, pay special attention to wear points – those areas where chains connect to the dock, where hardware meets wood, and where anchors attach to chains. These friction points often show the first signs of trouble long before a catastrophic failure occurs.

"We recommend our clients in hurricane-prone areas like South Hampton conduct additional inspections during hurricane season," advises our maintenance specialist. "Preventative maintenance is always less expensive than emergency repairs."

Corrosion Resistance

If you've spent any time on Long Island waters, you know how quickly salt water can eat through metal. Many of our first-time dock owners are shocked at how rapidly untreated hardware can deteriorate in our local marine environment.

Always use marine-grade galvanized steel or stainless steel for all your hardware. Yes, it costs more upfront, but the longevity makes it worth every penny. We've replaced countless regular steel components that failed prematurely because someone tried to save a few dollars.

Consider applying additional protective coatings for hardware in particularly harsh environments. A client in Montauk who lives on an especially exposed shoreline applies a marine-grade zinc spray to their hardware each spring, and their anchoring system still looks nearly new after five years of pounding surf.

The golden rule we share with all our clients: Don't wait for complete failure to replace corroded components. If you see significant rust or corrosion, replace the part immediately. It's much cheaper to replace a single chain link than to retrieve a floating dock that's drifted into your neighbor's property!

Adapting to Weather Changes

Long Island's four distinct seasons each bring unique challenges for dock owners. Being proactive about seasonal changes will significantly extend your dock's lifespan.

Winter preparation is crucial, especially in areas where ice forms. In shallower areas of the Great South Bay, we often recommend adjusting anchoring to accommodate ice pressure or removing floating sections entirely. One clever client in Babylon actually installed a bubbler system that prevents ice from forming around their anchoring chains – brilliant solution!

During hurricane season (June through November), we suggest checking anchoring systems more frequently. Many of our clients in exposed areas add temporary storm anchors when major weather systems approach. Better safe than sorry, especially with the increasing intensity of storms we've been seeing.

Spring adjustments are often overlooked but incredibly important. After winter, water levels typically change with spring thaws and rains. What worked perfectly in fall might be too tight or too loose come April. A quick tension check can prevent problems before boating season gets into full swing.

Maintenance Best Practices

Beyond regular inspections, proper maintenance keeps your anchoring system functioning optimally year after year.

Keep chains clean of marine growth and debris. It's amazing how quickly barnacles and algae can accumulate on underwater components around Long Island. This growth adds weight and creates wear points that can compromise your system. A stiff brush and some elbow grease twice a year works wonders.

Don't forget to lubricate moving parts with marine-grade lubricant. This is especially important for components like winches, pulleys, or any adjustment mechanisms in your anchoring system. Salt water washes away lubricants faster than you might expect.

Maintaining proper tension is something of an art form. Too tight, and your chains can't accommodate water level changes; too loose, and your dock might drift too much. Check and adjust chain tension periodically, especially following significant water level changes. We teach our clients to look for about 1-2 feet of slack at normal water levels – just enough to allow for fluctuations without excessive movement.

Finally, document your system. Keep records of your anchoring configuration, including weight, chain length, and hardware specifications. You'd be surprised how helpful this information can be years later when you need to replace a component or explain your setup to a marine contractor.

A client in West Hampton shared: "Following Pearce Marine Construction's maintenance schedule has kept our dock in perfect condition for over seven years now. The small amount of time spent on regular checks has saved us thousands in potential repairs."

The bottom line? A little TLC goes a long way when it comes to dock anchoring. Your dock is an investment in your waterfront lifestyle – protect it with proper maintenance, and it will serve you faithfully for many years to come.

Frequently Asked Questions about Anchoring Floating Docks

What Type of Anchors Are Best for Rocky Shorelines?

Rocky shorelines can be tricky to work with—something we see all the time along Long Island's North Shore. When you're dealing with a rocky shore, standard anchoring methods often won't cut it.

Concrete pad anchors have saved the day for many of our clients with rocky waterfronts. I remember a homeowner in Lloyd Harbor who was at his wit's end trying to secure his dock. We built him a tapered concrete pad, about 6-8 feet wide and 2 feet high at the waterline, with embedded mounting studs. Not only did it solve his anchoring problem, but it also created a nice transition space between land and water!

Deadweight anchors are another excellent option. These are essentially heavy blocks—concrete or granite—that sit on the bottom without needing to penetrate it. As one of our marine experts likes to say, "If you've got granite available, grab it!" These blocks can range anywhere from 250 pounds for smaller docks to a whopping 3,000 pounds for larger installations.

For areas with some soil between the rocks, screw anchors can sometimes work. But I'll be honest—they require specialized equipment and know-how to install properly.

One of my favorite solutions was for a client in Cold Spring Harbor. The shoreline was so rocky that conventional methods were impossible. We ended up building a shallow water crib that served as an anchor point while blending naturally with the surrounding landscape. Sometimes creativity wins the day!

How Much Weight Do I Need to Anchor My Floating Dock?

This is where science meets experience. While there's no one-size-fits-all answer, we've developed some reliable guidelines over our years of installing docks throughout Long Island:

At a minimum, you'll want 600 pounds at the furthest corners of your dock and about 450 pounds at the corners closer to shore. This creates a gradient of stability that works with natural water movement rather than fighting it.

A good rule of thumb we follow is that your anchors should weigh at least twice as much as the dock itself. This accounts for additional forces like wind, waves, and the occasional enthusiastic cannonball from the kids!

For optimal stability, we recommend anchoring points every 24 to 30 feet along the length of your dock. This prevents the middle sections from developing too much flex during high winds or boat wakes.

Don't forget about Archimedes! Concrete weighs about half as much underwater as it does on land, so factor that into your calculations. A 150-pound concrete block provides only about 75 pounds of holding power once submerged.

I remember a recent project in Bayshore where we installed four 254-pound concrete anchors at the corners of a 12' x 24' floating dock. The homeowner called after a particularly nasty nor'easter just to tell us his dock hadn't budged an inch while his neighbor's DIY setup had nearly ended up in Connecticut!

Can I Anchor a Floating Dock Myself or Should I Hire a Professional?

This is probably the question I hear most often while meeting with homeowners across Nassau and Suffolk counties. The honest answer? It depends on several factors.

If you're considering the DIY route, ask yourself:

• Do you have experience with marine construction and understand water dynamics?
• Can you access boats, winches, and other equipment needed to place heavy anchors?
• Do you have several days to dedicate to the project?
• Are you familiar with local permits and environmental regulations?

There's an old joke in our industry: "If you can build a deck, you can build a dock—they're just one letter apart!" While there's a kernel of truth there, the marine environment adds layers of complexity that can catch even experienced builders off guard.

When professional help makes sense:

For complex installations with challenging conditions like rocky shores, deep water, or strong currents, professional expertise can save you significant headaches. The techniques we've developed over generations of marine construction simply aren't found in DIY videos.

Larger docks or those intended for multiple or heavy boats benefit tremendously from professional installation. The forces at work increase exponentially with size, and miscalculations can be costly.

Navigating permits in New York waterways can feel like trying to swim upstream. Our team knows exactly which forms to file and which departments to contact, often saving weeks or months in the approval process.

Perhaps most importantly, professional installation typically comes with warranties and ongoing maintenance support. We stand behind our work long after the last bolt is tightened.

I'll never forget a client in Merrick who called us after his second attempt at anchoring his own dock. "I thought I'd save money doing it myself," he told me, "but after my dock broke free twice in moderate winds, I realized the expertise was worth every penny." Three years later, his professionally installed system hasn't required a single adjustment.

How to anchor a floating dock to shore isn't just about the technical steps—it's about understanding the unique characteristics of your specific waterfront and designing a system that will stand the test of time, storms, and seasons.

Conclusion

Anchoring your floating dock isn't just about chains and concrete blocks—it's about understanding your unique waterfront setting and making thoughtful choices. Over the years, we've helped countless homeowners across Nassau and Suffolk Counties make sure their docks stand strong through every Long Island season.

The first and most important step is a thorough environmental assessment. Take the time to really understand your shoreline—water depth, currents, wave action, wind exposure and even shoreline type. These factors shape the decision-making for your dock anchoring solution.

With your setting clear in mind, select the appropriate anchoring method. Cable anchoring might be perfect if you have deeper waters or frequent tidal changes, while stiff-arm anchoring works wonders in shallower locations that require minimal lateral movement. Pole and sleeve anchoring is ideal when wind and waves kick up, and pile anchoring offers maximum strength for heavy-duty or commercial docks.

Don't skimp on materials—use only marine-grade quality materials designed for our Long Island saltwater environment. Galvanized chains, stainless steel hardware and durable concrete anchors will provide reliability season after season.

Proper installation is critical. Ensure correct anchor placement, configure your chains in a criss-cross pattern to evenly distribute tension, and provide slack to accommodate tides and seasonal water-level changes. A well-installed dock isn't just safer—it's much easier to maintain.

Speaking of maintenance, never forget the value of regular check-ups. Inspect your anchoring system at least twice a year, and always after storms or unusual weather events. It's the easiest way to spot small issues before they become expensive problems.

At Pearce Marine Construction, we've anchored floating docks everywhere from the sheltered harbors of Huntington to the windswept shores of West Hampton. We’re a woman-owned, third-generation family business dedicated to meticulous craftsmanship, personal service, and deep local knowledge. Our goal is always the same: a floating dock you'll enjoy—not worry about.

As one of our long-time clients in Babylon put it: "The dock is our gateway to enjoying the water. Having it properly anchored means we spend more time enjoying our boat and less time worrying about repairs."

If you're considering a new floating dock or need to secure an existing one, we're here for you. With our expertise, your dock will stay right where it belongs, giving you safe and easy access to the beautiful waters around Long Island for years to come.

For more helpful information and personalized advice, visit our Boat Docks and Floating Docks page or reach out to the friendly experts at Pearce Marine Construction. We'll make sure you get exactly the solution you need.